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Volume 10, Number 3, June 2009

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Consuming Geographies: We Are Where We Eat
By David Bell and Gill Valentine

    Spaghetti evokes images of Italy; France, croissants and wine; Great Britain, tea; Florida, oranges; Vermont, cheese. The list is virtually endless; so many of the foods we eat are associated with specific places. Where and how are these associations between food and place born? Using Bell and Valentine’s Consuming Geographies: We Are Where We Eat as a social tool, I will investigate the genesis and evolution of the national reputation of New York City bagels and in so doing illuminate the relationship between food and place.
   
    Through an investigation of food and consumption, Consuming Geographies: We Are Where We Eat seeks to inform discussions and political debates on place and identity formation. With a specific emphasis on the geography of food consumption, Bell and Valentine investigate where we eat and the social and cultural ramifications of this consumption. Bell and Valentine visit locales of great consumption, including shopping malls, homes, and restaurants, all in a variety of locations, to learn about modern food practices. In addition, the authors study food rituals, etiquette, rules, technology, materials, and production to learn about, and make informed decision on, our society and culture. Through this investigation, Bell and Valentine argue that while food is commonly regarded as a mundane aspect of our lives, it offers and important lens through which we can study our society and culture. At the center of their argument lies the relationship between food and place. The authors argue that where we live informs how and what we eat, and that how and what we eat informs where we eat. Employing sociological and anthropological readings and empirical research, Bell and Valentine study food in our bodies, homes, communities, cities, regions, and nations. The most effective and evocative evidence are short ‘memoir boxes’ dispersed among the chapters. Sprinkled with ‘ums’ and ‘likes,’ these unedited memoirs demonstrate the centrality of food in our daily lives and confirm Bell and Valentine’s discoveries and conclusions. 
   
    As a tool to investigate the relationship between New York City and bagels, I will draw a parallel between the European food-place case studies in Consuming Geographies: We Are Where We Eat and New York City as well as confirm many of the authors’ food and geography conclusions. Bell and Valentine establish the importance of food and place associations, arguing that “urban promotion is increasingly seeking to capitalise on a city’s culinary associations in the race for prominence on the world-city stage” (121). I will use this research to establish an important connection between New York City and bagels. In addition, Bell and Valentine argue that place-specific foods such as New York City bagels or Italian spaghetti lead to place promotion and formation of a regional identity. To this end, I will use Consuming Geographies as a stepping stone to discuss the evolution of the image and reputation of a quintessential New York bagel in New York City as well as nationally. Lastly, Bell and Valentine assert that local and regional food “traditions are invested and reinvested with meaning…often with vehement local patriotism” (152). Using this argument as a framework for the development of a food-based regional identity, I will argue that its early origin in New York City, its subsequent extensive history with the city, and generations of dedicated consumers have garnered New York City its national association with the bagel.
   
    Phoebe Aron

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“A focused and history of our last legal and socially acceptable drug.” -WSJ


    Author Mark Pendergrast and his work, Uncommon Grounds, starts from the literal grounds of coffee in ancient Ethiopia and the myths surrounding the first discovery of coffee and takes the reader on a journey through time to discover how coffee has become America’s most important and advertised beverage. Pendergrast focuses heavily on coffee growth and trade internationally and how the American coffee trade, specifically, has affected world economies.

    After spending the first half of his book focusing on the international development, Pendergrast turns back to America in “Canning the Buzz,” specifically focusing on coffee growth in advertisement coupled with the onset of World War I and the Great Depression. Ironically enough, Pendergrast credits George Washington, no relation to the former president, to revolutionizing coffee in America with his invention of instant coffee. This “G. Washington’s Refined Coffee,” was immediately requisitioned by the US army and became a staple ration of the military during World War I. From there, coffee became an even larger staple of America as seventy-five million pounds of instant coffee was used during the war effort – veterans became addicted to the stuff and it was a “vital-blessing” in their everyday life overseas. This was the starting point for a marketing revolution in America and changed coffee forever. Suddenly this internationally produced beverage became a symbol of America, starting with the troops and ending in the cups of over fifty percent of Americans. What strategies did coffee companies like Folgers, G. Washington Refined, and the PABC adopt and how effective where these techniques? Pendergrast brilliantly answers this question and breaks down each major company to help the reader gain insight into each campaign.
   
    However, along with Pendergrast’s personal anecdotes and interpretations of specific advertising techniques, his work is broken up with US foreign policy as background. Although the context of coffee trade, a solely internationally traded product, is important, presidential foreign policy seems to distract from Pendergrast’s writing style. His work is colloquially delivered, elegant, and smooth, yet his transitions into Kennedy policy during the Cuban missile crises, for example, are stiff, long-winded, and seem to be more of Pendergrast showing his extensive knowledge of American history then leading to his general thesis on the growth of American coffee.
   
    Despite this weakness, Pendergrast’s Uncommon Grounds is a strong work. His format is unique, and one I wish to emulate in my research paper, as Pendergrast dynamically and effortlessly winds his way from ancient times to modern day, breaking up each chapter into smaller sections to highlight specific advertising campaigns or marketing trends during select time periods. His work only reconfirms my research into the rise of coffee in the early twentieth century and the advertising campaigns that made it a staple of the average Americans diet. The transformation of coffee is key, and Pendergrast stresses the affects of marketing strategies in this makeover over time from the exotic, to an afternoon tradition, and to, eventually, “Folgers in your cup.” How did we get to where we are today? Pendergrast answers that question and more.

\n

Wiley Spears

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Explaining Organic: Fromartz Examines the Food Industry

    The nature of a subculture is to rebel against the mass-marketed mainstream, and while the organic movement strives to do just that, it does so not with grating music or new styles of dress, but with down-to-earth sincerity of the most literal sense. In fact, today the word organic has nearly reached the level of mainstream in certain circles, as business journalist Samuel Fromartz acknowledges. Fromartz’s book, Organic, Inc.: Natural Foods and How They Grew, explores the history and industry of the organic food movement in order to provide deeper-than-the-label knowledge for the average consumer.
   
    Fromartz begins his book with a brief history of his own purchasing practices, leading to his discovery and passionate following of Whole Foods. As a consumer of organic food, he is interested in studying the back-story of the movement.  The book, Organic, Inc., relays the struggles and triumphs of the organic food movement using history to inform present day debates and following the changes in the goals of the movement over time, starting at the beginning of the 20th century. The first chapter looks at the origins of organic in America as a response to the new agricultural methods, including chemical fertilizers, which began to be popular during that time. Fromartz compares these early beginnings to the British organic movement of the 1920s-40s, citing a quote by Sir Albert Howard that in essence seems to sum up the movement even today: Howard asserted that, “‘artificial manures lead inevitably to artificial nutrition, artificial animals, and finally to artificial men and women'\" (Fromartz 9). In his next four chapters, Fromartz chooses to chart the growth of four different sections of organic food: strawberries, co-ops and farmers markets, mesclun mix lettuce, and soy products. Each of these parts represents a larger debate within the movement that Fromartz explains through the stories of single farmers or farm families and their products. Because his aim is to fully inform both himself and other organic consumers, Fromartz spends the last two chapters dissecting the meaning behind the different types of organic labeling seen in supermarkets as well as farmer’s markets, and examining statistics on who is buying organic food in America today. In charting the growth of organic food from a “small, alternative movement” to the mainstream, Fromartz remarks that the status symbol “…is not a composting toilet out back, as it was in the 1970s, but a Toyota Prius in the driveway” (Fromartz 78). Organic, Inc. offers a complete history of the organic food movement from the 20th century to the present, all the while placing the movement in the context of American culture and consumption.
   
    The key aspect of Fromartz’s book that I hope to be able to emulate in my own paper is in fact this artful contextualization, but I also plan to draw on the rich history he provides as well as the descriptions he includes of each farmer’s idea of what the organic movement stands for. The organic food movement has diverged since its beginnings in traditional agriculture, and as I plan to follow the original ideals and definitions of natural and organic foods in my research, Organic, Inc. will be an invaluable resource. 

Jada Wensman

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