Introduction : The field of men's fashion -- Part I. A brief history of men's fashion : From black in Spain to black in Shakespeare / John Harvey -- The three-piece suit / David Kuchta -- Macaroni masculinities / Peter McNeil -- Thomas Carlyle and Sartor Resartus / Michael Carter -- Dandyism, visual games, and the strategies of representation / Olga Vainshtein -- A tale of three Louis, ambiguity, masculinity, and the bow tie / Rob Shields -- Uniforms and the creation of ideal masculinity / Elisabeth Hackspiel- Mikosch -- Better and brighter clothes: the Men's Dress Reform Party, 1929-1940 / Barbara Burman -- Part II. Masculinity and sexuality: the making of fashionable men : California casual: lifestyle marketing / William R. Scott -- 'Men don't wear velvet you know!': fashionable gay masculinity and the shopping experience, London, 1950-early 1970s / Clare Lomas -- Überman: masculinity, costume, and meaning in comic book superheroes / Vicki Karaminas -- The Italian job: football, fashion and that sarong / Stella Bruzzi -- From catwalk to catalogue: male fashion models, masculinity and identity / Joanne Entwistle -- The transvestite continuum: Liberace - Valentino - Elvis / Marjorie Garber -- Dragging it up and down: the glamorized male body / Mark Simpson -- Class, race and masculinity: the Mcdaddy, the Superfly, and the Rapper / Del LaGrace Volcano and Judith 'Jack' Halberstan -- Part III. Icons: the evolution of men's wear : Heroes in wool / Anne Hollander -- The reinvention of tailoring / Michael Zakim -- The Japanese suit and modernity / Toby Slade -- Clothes and the modern man in 1930s Oxford / Laura Uglini -- A note: a charismatic art / Richard Martin -- Modern masculinity and the rise of school uniforms / Jennifer Craik -- Rancher and farmer dress in north central Texas: an ethnographic history / George A. Boeck, Jr. -- American denim: blue jeans and their multiple layers of meaning / Beverly Gordon -- Part IV. Subculture: style and resistance : The zoot suit: its history and influence / Holly Alford -- Back to Africa: Reggae and Rastafarianism / Dick Hebdige -- Cultural responses of the Teds / Tony Jefferson -- Rock, fashion and perfomativity / Noel McLaughlin -- The Warhol look / Mark Francis and Margery King -- 'Macho man': clone and the development of a masculine stereotype / Shawn Cole -- Part V. COnsuming and creative style : Fashion and the man: from suburb to city street / Christopher Breward -- Fashioning the playboy: messages of style and masculinity in the pages of Playboy magazine, 1953-1963 / Becky Conekin -- 'It was style with a capital \"S\": versions of being male presented at the beautillion ball / Annette Lynch -- New men and new markets / Frank Mort -- Consuming masculinities: style, content and men's magazines / Tim Edwards
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\nPresenting a survey of the social, cultural and theoretical issues which surround and inform our understanding of masculinity, this book explores the interface between traditional sociological approaches and the work covered by more post-structural, media-driven or cultural perspectives.
\nEdwards well known for his work on representations of masculinities, uses grounded examples of the job market and domestic violence to set his theoretical discussion. He argues that there is a need for more dialogue on men and masculinities between disciplines, and considers the validity of the concerns and anxieties which surround masculinity in the contemporary world through a range of key topics, including:
\nOne of the most comprehensive and progressive studies of modern masculinity available, this book will be essential reading for students of gender, culture and sociology.
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\nValerie Steele studied the history of the corset, \"probably the most controversial garment in the history of fashion,\" for more than twenty years. This beautifully produced book consists of six compulsively readable chapters and hundreds of illustrations. I couldn't put it down.
\nIn the first chapter \"Steel and Whalebone: Fashioning the Aristocratic Body\" Steele provides an overview of corseting. An \"essential element of fashionable dress for over 400 years,\" the corset nonetheless was oftentimes condemned, perceived by historians and some contemporary thinkers as an 'instrument of torture,' an accessory to the sexual exploitation of women.
\nSteele has studied her subject deeply and widely, and so can confidently object to simplistic rejections of the practice of corseting, its heir tight-lacing (no waist is ever small enough, in the views of the women who practiced this), and other attempts at female self-modification, asserting that, in fact, it \"was a situated practice that meant different things to different [women] at different times,\" and that \"the corset also had many positive connotations - of social status, self-discipline, artistry, respectability, beauty, youth, and erotic allure.\"
\nThe history, economics, and sociology of the Renaissance corset are discussed, along with the corset's unmistakable relationship to the earlier armor of Rome and the middle ages. (The Madonna, wearing a snug laced-bodice dress, one breast bared for her son, was painted by Jean Fouquet in the fifteenth century.) Men were not immune to their own versions of the corset. \"A polished and disciplined mode of self-presentation was important for members of the elite,\" with physical self-control uppermost, but in 1588 Michel de Montaigne wrote of female deaths by corseting, describing the ultimately fatal voluntary modifications of the body that could take (and did) place. Steele points out that corseting was often condemned by the medical establishment, but that there is much more to the story. The corset's role in the erotic lives of men and women is undeniable.
\nSteele explores the medical controversies that raged around corseting and tight-lacing, the considerable medical and feminist controversies of both the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, fashion history, theories of sexuality and politics, and their inevitable intersection. There is fitting and thrilling supporting evidence for a variety of ways to think about the corset, culled from literature, media, advertising, contemporary accounts, fashion history (Europe, the US, and Africa), studies in sexuality and psychology, along with examples of the corset in art (paintings of corseted women Manet, Degas, Seurat, Toulouse Lautrec are reproduced) The corset's historical and contemporary role in erotics, along with its use as fetish apparel (another area in which Steele is an expert) is thoroughly explored. Fashion photography of this century and Madonna, too. There is the eventual introduction of latex, the birth of the rubberized girdle of this century, and the ultimate demise all of these tight everyday things, except as openly sexualized accessories, curios, or ironic artifacts.
\nFinally, Steele discusses women's corseting of the past relative to contemporary ideals of female youthfulness and thinness, some women's enthusiasm for various aspects of self-discipline and alteration, \"the hard body,\" along with dieting, exercise regimes that intend the sculpting of the female body, and elective surgical practices such as liposuction.
\nThere are pages of endnotes, an amazing Bibliography, and a good index. Great book.
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\nCovering a variety of genres and periods from medieval epic to contemporary speculative fiction, Styling Texts explores the fascinating ways in which dress performs in literature. Numerous authors have made powerful-even radical-use of clothing and its implications, and the essays collected here demonstrate how scholarly attention to literary fashioning can contribute to a deeper understanding of texts, their contexts, and their innovations. These generative and engaging discussions focus on issues such as fashion and anti-fashion; clothing reform; transvestism; sartorial economics; style and the gaze; transgressive modes; and class, gender, or race \"passing.\" This is the first academic volume to address such an extensive range of texts, inviting consideration of how fashionable desires and concerns not only articulate the aesthetics, subjectivities, and controversies of a given culture, but also communicate across temporal and spatial divisions. Styling Texts is an essential resource for anyone interested in the artistic representations and significations of dress.
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\nDress is one of the most significant markers of gender identity, yet is only rarely explored in depth. This volume addresses the relationship between gender and dress, opening up fascinating aspects by covering a great variety of ethnographic areas reaching from Asia, Europe and Africa to North and South America. The time span is equally wide-ranging and offers present-day material as well as studies based on historical data.
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\nThe study of fashion has exploded in recent decades, yet what this all means or quite where it might take us is not clear. This new book helps to bring fashion into focus, with a comprehensive guide to the key theories, perspectives and developments in the field.
\nTim Edwards includes coverage of all the major theories of fashion, including recent scholarship, alongside subcultural analysis and an in-depth look at production. Individual topics include:
\nFashion in Focus is the ideal companion for students in the arts and social sciences, especially those studying issues such as fashion, gender, sexuality and consumer culture.
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\nThe high-heeled shoe conjures self-assured allure and erotic intoxication like no other item of women's wear. Just recently the high heel has undergone a massive resurgence in popularity, in part reinventing itself through an overt invoking of fetish, with which the heel has of course always had some relationship. Built around a selection of images of heels from contemporary photography, High Heels: Fashion, Femininity and Seduction explores the confluence of art, fashion and fetish in the cult of high heels swooping down the fashion show runways and city streets everywhere. Illustrated with works from photographers such as Guy Bourdin, Juergen Teller, Bettina Rheims, Marilyn Minter, Tim Walker, Steven Klein, David Lachapelle and Vanessa Beecroft, among many others, High Heelsalso includes several important texts: an essay by Valerie Steele on the industry forces behind high-heel design; Tim Blanks of Style.com interviews Manolo Blahnik and Nicholas Kirkwood; Philip Delamore describes the technological developments behind the extreme contours of recent shoe design; Stella Bruzzi on high heels, gender, and representation in film; and an introduction by Ivan Vartanian, in conversation with James Crump, discusses the high heel as a vehicle for discussing a fetish for photography in general. High Heels is a visual odyssey through the powerful ideas of beauty, danger and seduction that the high heel evokes.
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\nWhat do our clothes say about who we are or who we think we are? How does the way we dress communicate messages about our identity? Is the desire to be \"in fashion\" universal, or is it unique to Western culture? How do fashions change? These are just a few of the intriguing questions Fred Davis sets out to answer in this provocative look at what we do with our clothes--and what they can do to us.
Much of what we assume to be individual preference, Davis shows, really reflects deeper social and cultural forces. Ours is an ambivalent social world, characterized by tensions over gender roles, social status, and the expression of sexuality. Predicting what people will wear becomes a risky gamble when the link between private self and public persona can be so unstable.
Description
\n\"His & Hers explores changing perceptions of \"masculine\" and \"feminine\" dress from the mid-18th century to the present. Side-by-side comparisons of men's and women's clothing highlight their differences and similarities. Featuring more than 100 garments, accessories, and textiles, the exhibition begins with complementary \"his and hers\" clothing by 20th-century designers who have created fashions for both men and women\"--FIT website http://www.fitnyc.edu/9046.asp
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\nPower and suits, yes. Tradition and suits, certainly. But sex and suits? Anne Hollander's compulsively readable history of the evolution of modern fashion is a marvelous investigation into the language of clothes. Venturing playfully backward and forward through the history of costumes and art, Hollander reveals how fashion thrives on the brink of subversion, in subtle or brash confrontation with the masculine and feminine conventions in any age. There is more to suits than meets the eye, insists Hollander, and she proceeds to show how sex and gender definition override class as the driving forces behind fashion. By seeing through clothes, Hollander helps us read our own sartorial desires and reminds us that in our highly visual world, appearance is always significant--clothes do make the man.
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\nWithin the Hmong American community, mothers and aunts of teenagers use bangles, lace and traditional handwork techniques to create dazzling displays reflecting the gender and ethnicity of their sons and daughters, nieces and nephews, as they participate in an annual courtship ritual. This book examines these events to show how dress is used to transform gender construction and create positive images of African American and Hmong American youth.
Coming-of-age rituals serve as arenas of cultural revision and change. For each of these communities, the choice of dress represents cultural affirmation. This author shows that within the homogenizing context of American society, dress serves as a site for the continual renegotiation of identity - gendered, ethnic and otherwise.
Description
\nWonderful reviews and word-of-mouth helped make the hardcover edition of this title--a unique celebration of African-American male fashion and style--a best-seller. Essence called it \"a testament to the creative spirit of Black men . . . filled with striking photographs of Black legends and insightful essays about the historical context of their apparel.\" With sleek photographs and a host of celebrity interviews, the special value hardcover edition captures the elegance of Nat King Cole, comfort of Bill Cosby, hip-hop style of LL Cool J, and sex appeal of Denzel Washington. Expert advice rounds out the \"history of fabulous sartorial style\"(Essence), showing readers how to accomplish the same looks on their own. This is a must-have for Black men--and the women who love them.
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\nTomboys are confident, rebellious, and adventurous. They are bold, brazen, fierce—and sexy. They aren’t known for following rules, they are known for doing—and wearing—whatever they want.
Tomboy captures the tomboy’s style, her je ne sais quoi, her wardrobe, and most importantly, her spirit. Throughout the twentieth century, the mass marketing of gender stereotypes meant tomboys cropped up against the odds, trends, and ads. As menswear-inspired fashions for women have exploded into the mainstream under the helm of designers and stylists ranging from J.Crew to Rag & Bone to Boy by Band of Outsiders, acceptance of both the word tomboy and the women associated with its edge has been set into play. But a tomboy is not just about style—tomboys are measured in equal parts wardrobe and spirit.
A visual history that chronicles the past eighty years of women who blur the line between masculinity and femininity, Tomboy explores the evolution of the style and its icons. Vivid commentary illuminates the tomboy’s history and captures a diversity of women who are bound together by their inherent ability to seamlessly blend a rugged sensibility with classic, understated elegance.
Description
\nWhen do our bodies cease to be ours alone? At what point and under what political and social circumstances do our bodies become the subtle, but no less complete, inscription of the will of another person, an institution, or a state? Maurizia Boscagli analyzes the early twentieth-century transformation of the male body from Forster’s “unassuming black-coated clerk” and Eliot’s “young man carbuncular” to the brutal, tanned musculature of fascism. She argues that this new male superman corporeality corresponded precisely with the rise of early mass consumer culture—generally associated with the female—and the advent of fascism. This mechanistic, polished, and vigorous male creature inevitably became an object of political and economic obedience and conformity, and in the concept of “the national body,” a fighting machine.Boscagli takes the reader on a highly informed, literary, and cultural excursion through European culture between 1880 and 1930. She stops for long, enlightening looks at Oscar Wilde and The Picture of Dorian Gray, the Good War and the poet Rupert Brooke, Baden-Powell and the British Boy Scouts, and the primitive in D. H. Lawrence’s The Plumed Serpent. This erudite study about our obsessions with male physical perfection undergirds and explains the late-twentieth-century preoccupation with exercise, athletics, diet, and consumerism.
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